Stradling the Herefordshire/Powys border is the market town of Presteigne, home to Rockbridge Country Holiday Park. The town is steeped in history, some of it quite grisly, but it’s also a great base to take in this unique ‘Marches’ area.
History of Presteigne
There’s plenty to do in Presteigne, especially if you’re keen to explore its rich history. Originally known as Presthemede (the priests’ meadow), Presteigne appears in the Domesday Book as a settlement clustered around St Andrew’s Church. By the 12th century, the powerful Mortimer family had taken ownership of the area — their name still appears throughout the region, as they controlled vast parts of the Marches until the 15th century.
In Tudor times, Presteigne thrived as a market and malting town, growing grains locally to brew beer.
From the 1500s, it served as the county town of Radnorshire. Although the county was dissolved in a 1974 reorganisation and Presteigne (Llanandras in Welsh) now sits within Powys.
In 2024 Presteigne and Norton was named the first Dark Skies Community in Wales and given International Dark Skies status becoming a centre for dark skies tourism in Wales.
There’s plenty of things to do in Presteigne – here’s just a taster:
Places to eat and drink in Presteigne
Pubs in Presteigne
The Radnorshire Arms
The Radnorshire Arms Hotel, Presteigne is a stunning Grade II listed building that can trace its history back to the 1600s. The Jacobean building has original timbers and a wealth of oak panelled walls. You can feel the weight of history as soon as you step inside. Family run, the Radnorshire Arms, has 18 bedrooms, a large timber framed bar and an historic dining room. You can enjoy a drink it’s impressive bar, Sunday carvery, light lunches, traditional dinners, plus there’s an extensive kids’ menu and plenty of seating outside.
The Royal Oak
The Royal Oak is an 18th century pub on the High Street with a really traditional feel. Serving pub food to suit everyone from an extensive list of burgers to loaded fries, steaks to sides and deserts to cheeses. Check out their Facebook page for opening hours and more.
And here are few of the other pubs in Presteigne:
The Dukes Arms – Broad Street which dates from about the 1480’s.
The Farmers Inn – Hereford Street – a traditional 18th century family run pub.
Presteigne restaurants
Wild Thyme Italian It’s not all about timber and beers on tap. Fancy an Italian? Try Wild Thyme Italian on the High Street. From great coffee and pastries, light lunches to traditional Italian dinners – it’s a bit of Pisa in Presteigne! More details can be found on their Facebook page
Victoria’s Fish Bar – bag a chippy tea from the Presteigne chip shop
The Cabin – for your Chinese take away
Presteigne Shops
There’s plenty of quirky little shops to while away an hour or two in Presteigne including:
The Workhouse Rugs and Textiles – carpets, clothes, jewellery and home accessories. There’s also a cafe The Workhouse Gallery
The Old Shop – handmade blankets, clothing, jewellery and ceramics The Old Shop
Cole’s Curiosities – a creative boutique selling artifacts, gifts, musical instruments, nostalgia and antiquities Cole’s Curiosities
Presteigne’s place in gallows history
Presteigne earned its place on the historical map thanks to a deeply tragic story from the early 1800s. Reader discretion advised.
Mary Morgan, born around 1788, worked as a servant at Maesllwch Castle near Glasbury-on-Wye — the home of the Wilkins family. Starting in the kitchen, she eventually became the undercook. Historical records suggest that Walter Wilkins Junior, the gentleman of the house, became “taken with” Mary, who was described as pretty and intelligent. “Taken with” — that’s how people back then described having feelings for someone!
In 1804, Mary became pregnant but kept it a secret, fearing she’d lose her job. The identity of the father remains uncertain. It might have been another servant, or it could have been Wilkins himself.
Local author Jennifer Green, in her book The Morning of her Day, explores Mary’s story in detail. She uncovered correspondence suggesting that Wilkins offered to support the child — but only if Mary named him as the father. Mary refused.
Tragedy Strikes
Alone and desperate, Mary gave birth to a baby girl. Shortly after, she killed the infant, attempting to sever the baby’s head, and hid the body in her mattress. Authorities soon uncovered the crime. Mary was arrested and taken to Presteigne, where she was held in the town’s cells — still visible today in the Judge’s Lodgings Museum. She remained there for six months.
On 11th April 1805, Mary stood trial before Mr Justice George Hardinge — a known associate of Walter Wilkins, who may have been the father of her child.
Shocking end
Jennifer Green’s research shows the trial was much anticipated and the courtroom was full. 12 ‘just men and true’ were selected from the local gentry to sit on the jury. Shockingly, among them was Walter Wilkins. Mary had chosen to wear ‘gay apparel’, confident that Mr Wilkins would save her from the gallows. Sadly, this didn’t happen and the jury returned a verdict of guilty. Two days later Mary was taken from her cell by cart to Gallows Lane (it’s still there) on the edge of town and hung from a tree. The story says that she was so weak and light from her ordeal that a man was paid to hang onto her legs until her neck broke.
Place in history
It’s said that Judge Hardinge regularly visited Mary’s unconsecrated grave when he returned to Presteigne to hold court Sessions. Her final resting place in the churchyard of St Andrews was later marked by 2 stones, one of which bore the inscription: “He that is without sin among you, let him first cast a stone at her,” and was paid for by locals. What a story!
Historic Lodgings and Walking Trails
The Judge’s Lodgings
Award-winning 1870s Judge’s Lodging in Presteigne, Wales in Broad Street are the restored quarters of Victorian judges who came to Presteigne to mete out justice for the county of Radnorshire. Part of the original Shire Hall and Court of Justice, the lodgings have received huge acclaim from the likes of King Charles III (when the Prince of Wales) and historian Lucy Worsley.
Visitors can explore how visiting Judges, and their servants would have lived, and it’s all lit only by oil and gas lamps for that authentic feel! There’s also the court room and holding cell to have a nose in. It’s a properly historic experience for all ages.
The Warden
After a visit to the lodgings, you may feel like a walk away from its gas lit interior. On the outskirts of town is a wooded area called The Warden. With walks and great views, it’s the site of what was once the town’s motte and bailey castle. Thought to have been built before the Norman Invasion of 1066.
In the 18th century the area became a public pleasure ground for a bit of promenading. After WWII the site was neglected until 2003 when a team of local volunteers brought it back to its former glory.
There are walks, picnic tables, open spaces and trails. There’s also a meadow opposite the entrance to The Warden which is a wintering habitat for invertebrates and another area where you can picnic.
More things to do in Presteigne
All of the above are just a one-mile drive from Rockbridge Country Holiday Park and all under fabulous dark skies! There’s also Presteigne swimming pool in the local leisure centre and Presteigne library situated in the Market Hall.
At Rockbridge you can become the owner of holiday homes in mid-Wales, visit the park with your tourer, motorhome or tent or enjoy a holiday in a self-catering lodge and immerse yourself in this historic border town.
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