Things to do in Hay-on- Wye  

The town of Hay-on-Wye is synonymous with books – but that’s only half the story! There’s boutique shops, unique eateries, a castle and a stunning location. You’ll never be short of things to do in Hay-on-Wye.  

Renowned as the UK’s ‘Town of Books’, Hay is also home to the Hay Festival, one of the world’s largest literary festivals. Don’t let the name put you off — the one-week extravaganza in late May offers something for everyone.

Beyond the Festival, Hay-on-Wye offers plenty of other things to see and do, making this border town well worth a visit. It also sits just half an hour’s drive from all our Discover Parks, which makes our parks ideal places to stay while you experience the Hay effect.

Historical Hay, dandelions and the King of Hay 

Situated on the River Wye, a settlement at Hay was first recorded in Norman times.  A motte & bailey castle was built to secure the border crossing during troubled times between the Welsh and English.  

Hay became an important border town with agriculture at its core, serving the surrounding rural communities.  

The town resurfaces on the historical stage in the early 1920’s when a solicitor in Hay murdered his wife. And what a story it is!  

The town solicitor

Herbert Rowse Armstrong lived with his wife Kitty in Cusop Dingle near Hay, where he also practised in the town. The couple had three children: Pearson, Eleanor and Margaret. Herbert loved tending the garden at their home and spent hours pulling up dandelions (hold that thought!).

Herbert served as a member of the Territorial Army and insisted that people call him “The Major”. Despite the title, he had never seen military action — only plenty of weeding action.

In 1920, Kitty began to suffer from both physical and mental health conditions. Herbert cared for her at home at first, but doctors eventually sent her to an institution, which was common practice in the 1920s. After six months, Kitty’s health improved and she returned to Hay. Not long afterwards, however, her condition worsened again. Herbert continued to care for her, but in February 1921, Kitty died at the age of 47.

Rivals

Despite his wife’s untimely death, Herbert returns to work and to an ongoing rivalry with fellow Hay solicitor, Oswald Martin. Oswald is an WW1 veteran and is partially paralysed from shrapnel wounds. Everything Herbert isn’t. The widower invites Oswald for tea and scones at his house, and despite Oswald finding excuses, he finally goes along. 

Tea is drunk, and scones are eaten – one is even physically handed to Oswald by Herbert. However, that night Oswald is very ill. This makes Oswald’s father-in-law (also the town chemist), Fred Davies, very suspicious.  Herbert has been a regular buyer of arsenic from Fred to kill off his dandelions.  

Poisoning?

Fred warns Oswald not to accept strange packages just in case. But Oswald had received some unsolicited chocolates in the post and his wife had become sick after eating them.  

Fred – who seems to have quite a bit about him – asks Oswald for a urine sample which he then sends off to Scotland Yard. Guess what? When the results come back, they reveal that Oswald had arsenic in his system.  

Arrested

Because Herbert had been buying arsenic from him for quite a while, Fred suspects Kitty may well have been poisoned by her husband. The police visit Herbert at his office. In the course of the search Herbert drops a twist of paper that contains enough arsenic to be fatal to a person.  

Despite Herbert saying it’s just for his dandelions(!), the police believe they’ve got him bang to rights. Herbert’s arrested for the attempted murder of Oswald.   

Whilst Herbert’s locked up, the police call in a pathologist and exhume Kitty’s body. And you won’t be shocked to discover that poor, dead Kitty was full of arsenic too. 

Gallows  

Despite the defense claiming that Kitty had administered the fatal dose of arsenic to herself, Herbert is tried and found guilty of his wife’s murder. Although Herbert and his team try to get a re-trial, this is refused and Herbert is hanged in May 1922.  

Now, there’s a lot more to this story and plenty of places to do more research. Herbert’s death is certainly not the end of the story.

The King of Hay  

Richard Booth had moved to Hay as a child. He opened his first bookshop, The Old Fire Station, in the town in 1962. He bought the town’s crumbling castle in which he lived until a fire forced him to move out. By the 1980’s there were over 30 second hand book shops in Hay, where the population was less than 2,000.

Self-proclaimed

Richard, who was pretty eccentric, proclaimed himself King of Hay in 1977. He made his horse prime minister! His close friend, the model and one of the first well-known trans women in the UK, April Ashley, became a duchess. He also declared Hay independent and was given an MBE in 2004 for his contribution to Welsh tourism!

Richard Booth still attracts plenty of interest and a new book about him was published in September 2025. The Bookseller of Hay – the Life and Times of Richard Booth by James Hanning is published by Goldsboro Books.  

Looking for somewhere to stay?

Looking for somewhere to stay near Hay-on-Wye? Discover Parks have touring, tenting and motorhome pitches across three parks. Plus a variety of self catering holiday accommodation. We’re just half an hour from Hay!

Things to do in Hay-on-Wye 

Hay-on-Wye Bookshops  

As you’d expect, the Town of Books is full of bookshops! From antiquarian books, the latest bestsellers, children’s books, paperback, hardback, fiction and non-fiction. There are shops dedicated to true crime, detective novels and horror. Whilst some specialise in children’s literature and others in rare old books.  

Some of the shops are small, with stacked bookshelves from floor to ceiling. Others like the Hay Cinema Bookshop, which is in the town’s old cinema, have a stock of around 200,000 books. Richard Booth’s Bookshop on Lion Street is spread over three floors and also sells games and puzzles. 

Hay Castle  

You won’t miss the castle because it stands in an elevated position off Oxford Road. Its history can be traced back to Norman times, through Jacobean and Victorian ages. Twice it’s seen serious fires and fell into serious dilapidation until the Hay Castle Trust was formed in 2011.  

Restoration began in 2018, and the Castle opened to the public in 2022. It’s now a centre for the arts with exhibitions, workshops and a whole array of events taking place throughout the year. The grounds and Great Hall are free to visit and are dog friendly. There’s a shop and cafe whilst tours of the rest of castle are bookable in advance.

Hay Thursday markets 

There’s been a weekly market in Hay for over 700 years. Held throughout the town, you can buy artisan and local produce, fresh fish and game, clothing, gifts and heaps more. It’s open all year on a Thursday. 

Galleries   

Hay is home to several galleries selling everything from paintings and drawings to pottery and ceramics. You’ll also find jewelry, glass and prints. Many of the galleries support artists who work in Wales and the Marches areas.

Among the galleries are: 

Independent art gallery Bluestone Gallery, Hay on Wye, for unique gifts 

Artists | The Lion Street Gallery 

The Gallery — The Hay Makers   

Hay-on-Wye Shops 

There’s a brilliant selection of independent shops in the town. Outdoor clothing, chic boutiques, stationery, handmade fudges.  Whatever you fancy – Hay’s got it. Here’s a pick of the best:  

golesworthys.com – traditional men’s clothing suppliers since 1877 

Rohan | Specialists in Outdoor & Travel Clothing Since 1972 – specialists in outdoor and travel clothing and accessories.  

Number Two – Stylish Clothing, Footwear, Accessories and Gifts – in the town since 1982, with unusual fashion pieces as well as homewares. The shop is now situated in an old bank building and is still family run.  

A shop of many marvellous things, with coffee bar and occasional evening events, in Hay-on-Wye. The Old Electric Shop has got so much stuff in it, it’ll blow your mind! From homewares to bath products, books, bedding and plants and so much more. There’s a cafe too if you fancy a break from browsing.  

Bright, Funky, Magical & Mystical | Satori Designs & Otherworldz | Hay on Wye You’ll be able to smell Satori before you go inside! Eclectic and bohemian you’ll find candles, windchimes, crystals and more. There’s incense and clothes, jewelry, festival paraphernalia, scarves, hats, wallets and purses. If you’re slightly off the wall, you’ll love Satori and Otherworldz!

Walks around Hay-on-Wye 

From short riverside walks to longer hikes there’s something for serious walkers or family bimbles. Here’s a small selection: 

Riverside walk to the Warren (The Bailey Walk)  

This is a lovely walk that you can access from just beyond the main streets. It follows the old railway line along the River Wye to wide open meadows known as The Warren. It’s pretty flat so it’s an ideal walk for families and takes about an hour to complete. In summer take a blanket, towel and picnic and go for a paddle in The Warren. 

The Bailey Walk is the official riverside path name and The Warren is the end destination, so the walk is often referred to by both names.   

Circular Hay and Clyro Walk  

This takes you from Hay Bridge (B4351), near the Warren along the River Wye and back via Clyro. It’s a leisurely walk over grassland and woodland and quiet paths in the village of Clyro.   

Follow the Wye Valley Walk out of Hay. The village of Clyro is interesting because of its historical links. First up John Wesley, founder of the Methodists, often stayed and preached in Clyro. Clyro Court was built by Thomas Mynors Baskerville. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle stayed there and it’s thought he may have got inspiration for the Hound of the Baskerville’s from the area.  

From 1865-72, the curate of Clyro Parish was Francis Kilvert, he of the diary fame. The area is often referred to as ‘Kilvert Country’. Kilvert’s diaries document his life in the area and the people he met. 

Offa’s Dyke Path and Hay Bluff 

Head to Hay Bridge and on the Welsh side you’ll find signs to Offa’s Dyke Path. Northbound will take you towards Hay Bluff and the Black Mountains and south to Herrock Hill and Kington. The walk towards Hay Bluff is fairly level bar the last push up to the ridge which is a bit steeper. Once on the Bluff, on a clear day you can see Herefordshie, the Brecon Beacons and the Malverns.  

Hay-on-Wye Pubs and Restaurants 

As you’d expect, there are some great pubs and restaurants in Hay-on-Wye. 

The Granary  

The fact that The Granary has been open for almost 50 years, speaks volumes. Family run it champions home cooked food from local produce. It’s situated just beneath the clock tower and serves breakfast, lunches and special dining events. During the Hay Festival it hosts lots of pop-up foodie events. Take a moment to look at the building too. Its Grade II listed and has been on the town map since 1847! 

Shepherds Parlour 

Love ice cream? You’ll love Shepherds! The ice cream here is made from sheep’s milk produced just down the road at Peterchurch. It’s not just ice cream though, they also do coffee, stunning hot chocolate, homemade cakes, sandwiches and more. Just opposite the castle.  

The Blue Boar  

Not far from the town’s main car park on the corner of Castle Street you’ll find the Blue Boar. A traditional, dog friendly pub with a large bar and seating and dining areas. There’s also outside seating and you’ll find guest beers on tap.

The Three Tuns 

A 16^th century building, possibly the oldest in the town! You can’t move for period features including an inglenook chimney and a dog leg staircase. The menu is Italian inspired and there are local ales and cask beers. Sunday lunch is also served along with pizzas and stunning deserts.  

Leaf (The Salad Project) 

This vegetarian/vegan restaurant in Lion Street is well worth a visit. There’s a rotating menu with stunning dishes. Try chickpea and potato curry, falafel and humus wraps, and Mexican inspired dishes. The food is hearty and warming, and the portions are generous. Meals are served in biodegradable packaging too!

The Bull’s Head at Craswall 

A short drive out of Hay, the Bull’s Head is set in the Black Mountains. An old Drovers Inn, it retains many original features including a ‘hole in the wall’ bar! Much of the food is reared on the pub farm, or it comes from a very tight group of local producers. There’s also a farm shop, so if you like what you eat, you can buy it too! 

Looking for somewhere to stay?

Looking for somewhere to stay near Hay-on-Wye? Discover Parks have touring, tenting and motorhome pitches across three parks. Plus there’s a variety of self catering holiday accommodation. We’re just half an hour from Hay!